Still Alive and Kickin’
Exactly one year ago, I was waking up from the least restful night of my life. Call it good practice for parenthood, which is pending right around the corner for us, little baby King’s is due March 17.
I was in northern Canada at the time and within arms reach under the impossibly thin nylon tent were three other dudes, Buck Miller, Ryan Atkins, and Eric Batty. That nylon wasn’t really doing the job we had hoped since the outside temperature was -45 degrees. We’re pretty confident that the inside temperature was right in the same neighborhood. That’s the point, coincidentally, where Fahrenheit and Celsius intersect. We were a few miles east of Attawapiskat, a isolated “town” just west of Akimiski Island in the center of the mighty James Bay. Later that day we would attempt to pedal to Akimiski, but be thwarted by sections of yet unseen open water. Locals zoomed out on their snowmobiles warning they had received premonitions that it would be a bad idea to continue. We heeded their advice. Akimiski is part of the Nunavut Territory, the vast stretch of land that covers the Canadian Arctic. It’s no coincidence it’s Canada’s least populated province.
I like to ride my bike. I like to ride my bike short distances and long distances, for single days and many days and everything in between. I also like to sleep in my bed and shower at will and be able to control the thermostat to perfectly regulate the temperature just so. For what it’s worth, I prefer to sleep with our bedroom at 60 or sometimes even a brisk 58 degrees. -45 may as well be the temperature on the moon.
A few times that night, I literally thought, “Well, this is it. Apparently I’ll die by freezing to death.” Thankfully our most experienced outdoorsman and trip ringleader, Buck, also didn’t sleep much that night either. And since misery loves company, but with two people trying to fix things going forward, we quickly deduced that we hadn’t tossed enough snow on the outside of the tent’s edges to prevent a draft from seeping through the living space. Outdoor temps and indoor temps would not be the same moving forward.
His name is Buck. Between that and his beard, of course he was going to be our leader.
The only other concern as we set off over 650km south towards the thriving metropolis of Smooth Rock Falls was polar bears. Between Buck’s prowess with a shotgun and riding inland from this point on day one — therefore away from the open water and away from the hungry polar bears looking for food underwater — my fears were soon availed.
Packing up shop.
We fixed that going forward for the next week of chilly nights and largely didn’t have any problems otherwise. And as a result of us all making it home safe and sound, the dudes are at it again! With our daughter due in just a few weeks, I thought it was wise to opt out of this round. The new trip is a 750km ride of the Wapusk Trail, the longest seasonal winter road in the world. “Wapusk” is cree for white bear. Polar bears, although cute from the perspective of a magazine, are terrifying, to me at least.
The world “isolated” takes on a new meaning up by the arctic.
The first of its kind, they will start in Peawanuck First Nation and travel northwest through Polar Bear Provincial Park along the coastal lands of Hudson Bay and ending in Gillam, Manitoba.
The instagram handle has changed, so you can follow along on their adventure here.
Much like last year where we raised nearly $10,000 for the Timmins Native Friendship Centre (yeah, -re. It’s Canada, eh), this year they’re raising money for the True North Aid, serving northern Canadian communities with practical humanitarian support.
One of the coolest aspects of this trip was experiencing a new culture and community. We stopped mid-way through the James Bay Descent and visited an elementary school. This is an isolated, impoverished, and largely neglected community. Their curiosity and engagement was so much fun to be part of.
Talking to the local elementary school in Moosonee.
If you’re interested in reading more, I think you’ll dig this write up or watch this video of the trip or this video that summarizes my bike. Yeah yeah, I harp on some of the same things in that write up, but freezing to death and polar bears ARE reasons to be alarmed.
By the way, all good photos are Eric Batty’s. He’s got a knack for this camera thing.
